Trade
Liberalization and the Demise
of the Local Shoe Industry
The demise of
Philippine-made shoes is a result of decades of government neglect and
intensified by just a few years of aggressive liberalization under the
World Trade Organization.
By JP Andaquig
IBON Features
Posted by
Bulatlat
Shoemaking has always been the bread and
butter of 40-year-old Johnny Gaudia. Like nearly everyone else in Marikina
City, shoemaking for Gaudia is a family business. He became interested in
shoe production when his in-laws encouraged him to take up the craft,
being shoemakers themselves.
While his in-laws produced mostly baby
shoes, Gaudia and his wife decided to specialize in men's leather shoes
and put up Gaudia Shoes Manufacturing in 1986. Eventually, his company
diversified into the production of casual shoes, school shoes, sandals and
slippers, using both leather and synthetic materials.
|
WORKING HARD FOR THE
MONEY.
Filipino shoemakers are among those affected by trade liberalization. |
But the Philippine shoe industry has fallen on hard times. Gaudia Shoes
belongs to the more than 80% of registered shoe manufacturers in the
country that fall under small-scale and cottage industries, which are
usually family-owned and produce hand-crafted shoes using only sewing and
trimming machines.
Gaudia told IBON Features his company used
to employ some 100 workers and received an average of 10,000 orders every
month, usually from large-scale retailers and malls such as Shoemart,
Plaza Fair and Gaisano Mall. Now, however, he would be lucky to accept
about 100 orders in a week. More often than not, his company has no orders
for weeks. He had to lay off most of his workforce and now employs only a
few "on-call" workers as his production dramatically dwindled.
Gaudia, a member of the Samahan ng mga
Magsasapatos ng Pilipinas (SMP), currently spends most of his time as part
of the technical team formed by the Department of Trade and Industry (DTI)
that regularly inspects incoming volumes of shoe imports and monitors
their valuation. His efforts are an attempt to save the industry that has
enabled him to send his four children to school, and to fight what he
perceives as the main reason behind the industry's demise: the onslaught
of cheap imports as a result of trade liberalization.
Disastrous for local shoemakers
Gaudia's experience is neither new nor
unique. Since the 1990s, footwear groups in Marikina and other areas have
been warning against the influx of cheap goods from China, Korea, Taiwan
and other countries due to liberalization, which intensified when the
country became a member in 1995 of the World Trade Organization (WTO).
True enough, shoe imports have been
arriving in increasing volumes year after year. From 1997 to 1999, the
country imported an average of 38.5 million pairs of shoes. By 2001-2003,
the volume zoomed 56 percent to 60.2 million pairs.
And this only covers legally imported
shoes. Smuggling has also reportedly become rampant although government
has yet to release actual figures of the extent of the problem.
Nevertheless, the impact has been
disastrous for local shoemakers, particularly in
Marikina and Laguna. Almost a century of rich shoemaking tradition in
Marikina was lost when many small manufacturing firms closed down,
retrenched workers, sold Chinese imports themselves or entered into
exploitative subcontracting arrangements with foreign corporations.
From 513 registered manufacturers in 1994,
there are only 145 remaining in the country's shoe capital. More than
600,000 shoe workers lose their jobs every year and average production has
dwindled from 105,000 pairs of shoes a year in 1994 to 42,000 pairs in
2003.
The downswing in demand for locally-made
shoes is apparent as Filipinos continue to flock to flea markets and
tiangges in Greenhills and other commercial centers, where an ordinary
pair of counterfeit Nike shoes can go for as low as P300.
Due to the cheap price, only a few would
purchase more expensive locally-made leather shoes even if they are
marketed as made in Marikina. Add to this Filipinos' continuing preference
for foreign shoe brands such as Skechers, Nike, Adidas, and Converse, most
of which are subcontracted by their mother companies to factories in China
and other countries with low labor costs.
Dominated by imported shoes
Gaudia, like other shoemakers, laments the
fate that has befallen the local shoe industry. He said that in the past,
one can go down Shoe Avenue in Marikina and hear the sounds of workers
drafting and assembling soles and shoe lasts. At present, the sounds have
diminished and one can only see a few shops with stocks of finished shoes
wrapped in plastic and ready to be delivered.
In the past, the local shoe industry even
supported the growth of other small establishments such as panciterias and
other eateries where workers would get their evening snacks. Downstream
industries also benefit from the industry, such as local tanneries which
produce the processed leather or animal hide needed in the manufacture of
shoes.
From the 1950s to the 1980s, the SMP said
that the Philippine shoe industry experienced a boom owing from strong
local and international demand. During these years, many Filipinos wore
locally-made shoes such as the Ang Tibay and Mabuhay brands, and carried
locally-made leather handbags and purses. These products were also
exported to foreign markets or ordered by local Chinese distributors for
marketing in the provinces, the SMP added.
At present, 80 percent of the Philippine
market is dominated by imported shoes and leather products from China.
Filipino shoemakers have to compete for the remaining 20 percent of the
market with imports from other countries.
Aggressive liberalization
The demise of Philippine-made shoes can be
attributed to decades of government neglect and just a few years of
aggressive liberalization. Imports have literally killed the local shoe
industry. Even government has admitted this, but is evasive on calls to
protect the sector by halting importation.
Compared to foreign shoe companies that
have access to government subsidies with which to invest in improving
their technologies, the local industry continues to use traditional
low-tech methods, relying on the skills and ingenuity of Filipino
shoemakers.
The SMP says that local shoemakers cannot
compete on price alone as they are plagued with high production costs.
About 75 percent of their manufacturing costs come from the sourcing and
processing of raw materials such as leather hides, which they have to
import since local tanneries were not developed enough to meet large-scale
demand. It is estimated that around 80% of the components of finished
local leather footwear for export are imported.
Worse, shoe imports are grossly
undervalued. Liberalized customs rules have enabled technical smugglers to
flourish, says Gaudia. An average pair of imported shoes in 1997 was
valued at $12 but by 2002, the same pair had a valuation of $0.76.
Gaudia points out that the use of
transaction value as the means of customs valuation have hurt local
producers. Transaction value refers to the value agreed upon by the seller
and the importer, and is not based on the actual cost of materials or the
market price of the produce when sold in the local market. This has
enabled unscrupulous importers to have their stocks undervalued by Customs
inspectors. Given the seething corruption in the agency, importers are
finding it easier to pay less in duties for their imports which they would
sell either at knock-off prices in flea markets and discount stalls, or at
its original market price in malls and high-end shops.
Crushing local industries
Liberalization in essence has allowed the
greater entry of imports into the country, destroying local industries and
making local production more import-dependent. And with institutions such
as the WTO enforcing rules on further tariff reduction, the worst may
still befall our local producers, including our shoemakers.
Gaudia pointed out that footwear is not
covered by the General Agreement on Tariffs and Trade (GATT), but it was
still liberalized by the government under the Tariff Reform Program.
Despite the government's thrust to
liberalize and enforce an export-oriented policy, the local shoe industry
never became competitive in terms of state subsidies. Unfair trade
arrangements have also made it impossible for local shoe exporters to gain
a greater share of the international market. With local shoe technology
still way behind that of China, the US and the EU, as well as stringent
safety and quality standards enforced by rich countries, exporters face an
uphill battle.
Worse, footwear products are targeted for
further liberalization under the WTO's upcoming Sixth Ministerial in Hong
Kong this December. The reduction of industrial tariffs, or
non-agricultural market access (NAMA), is one of the major issues set to
be negotiated at the ministerial. People's groups and non-government
organizations have warned that once this new agreement is implemented,
local manufacturing industries face extinction. "Parang nakabaon ka sa
lupa, huhukayin ka pa nang mas matulin (We already feel we're below
the ground, and now says Gaudia.
Saving the industry
Gaudia says that the only chance for
Filipino shoemakers to survive is for local consumers to return to the
appreciation and patronage of local products. He calls this the economics
of nationalism: ensuring Filipinos buy Filipino-made products. But this
cannot be realized without full government support.
The SMP has also been making some inroads
in monitoring reports of undervaluation. Though Gaudia admits that he has
had many frustrations on the job, their team has been able to prevent the
entry of undervalued shoes, or increased their valuation. For example, a
pair of Diadora brand shoes declared as $2 per pair was revalued to $13.75
upon intervention by Gaudia's team. Unfortunately, many members of the
monitoring team have received death threats allegedly from importers and
customs insiders affected by their monitoring.
Nevertheless, Gaudia feels this is the
best way he can contribute in saving the industry his livelihood has
depended upon.
In particular, the SMP has called on the
government to undertake the following measures:
Creation of a National Footwear Authority
that would safeguard and protect the interests of the local footwear
industry;
Strict implementation of Republic Act 8800
which requires the imposition of safeguards whenever a deluge of imports
have affected local production, and the Consumer Act which requires the
labeling of products sold locally.
Formulation of a standard for quality
and safety
In the long-term, however, local
shoemakers, as well as other manufacturers, would benefit from the
reversal of liberalization and the reorientation of government policies
towards those that favor domestic producers over foreign corporations.
(With reports from Joseph S. Yu) Ibon Features/Posted byBulatlat
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